Christmas in Messinia

Christmas has arrived in Messinia, and the festive atmosphere is visible everywhere. Beginning on the feast day of St. Nicholas, December 6, villages and towns begin decorating with Karavakia—small, adorned boats—displayed both on the water and in town squares during celebrations. These vessels are elaborately decorated in honor of St. Nicholas, acknowledging him as the guardian of seafaring communities.

St. Nicholas, or Nikolaos, was an early Christian bishop from Myra, an ancient Greek city now known as Demre in Turkey. Renowned for his compassion toward his community during his lifetime, he later became celebrated as a miracle worker. He is honored as Greece’s patron saint, especially revered as the protector of sailors and maritime workers. The Christmas ships symbolize brave sailors returning home; their colors typically reflect the Greek flag—blue and white—and they remain on display until Epiphany on January 6.

Over the years, Christmas in Greece has become increasingly commercialized, much like in other countries. Beginning in late November or early December, municipalities welcome the festive season with a variety of Christmas events that promise moments of joy and warmth for everyone. From tree lightings and concerts to creative activities for children and traditional celebrations, each event adds to the magic of the season.

The holiday season in Messinia is truly unique, offering a glimpse into age-old customs that breathe life into local culture and history. While some traditions may seem familiar—with a distinctive Greek flair—others will introduce entirely new experiences. Rest assured, one thing remains constant—you'll be well-fed!

Traditional Christmas treats

Christipsomo, meaning "bread of Christ," continues to be baked in numerous towns and villages in Messinia and throughout Greece. This light, white bread is traditionally prepared on Christmas Eve using a special yeast and adorned with walnuts, small dough pieces shaped into crosses, and various other decorative elements. On Christmas Day, the family patriarch or matriarch makes the sign of the cross over the bread before dividing it among family members and guests. One common understanding of this tradition is that it represents the Holy Communion, symbolizing how Christ bestowed the "bread of life" upon all humanity.

Tiganides, also referred to as lalagia, are traditional deep-fried dough strips primarily prepared in Mani villages during Christmas Eve. The dough is traditionally rolled into thick, spaghetti-like strands, which are then folded onto themselves four times to create a spiral shape. These spirals are subsequently fried in a large pan filled with extremely hot oil over an open log fire fueled with dense logs to ensure sustained heat and durability. The first batch of tiganides to be cooked—typically large, round, and marked with a cross at the center—is dedicated to Christ. The second batch is meant for the household, while the remaining pieces serve the family members. Historically, once cooked, these tiganides were transferred onto round copper trays for draining before being placed into wicker baskets and hung high out of reach. 

During recent times of mourning for a loved one, it was customary for relatives and friends to deliver homemade tiganides to the grieving family, ensuring they did not miss out on this traditional treat. If you have already developed a fondness for the Christmas sweets you've sampled elsewhere in Greece, rest assured that kourabiedes and melomakarona are also available in the Peloponnese. Kourabiedes, or kurabies, are round biscuits crafted from flour and butter, generously dusted with icing sugar. Their name derives from the Persian qurabiye, and the recipe was introduced to Greece in 1924 by refugees fleeing Asia Minor. How could anyone resist another iconic Greek Christmas delicacy—melomakarona? These tender cookies made with olive oil, orange juice, festive spices, and honey embody the essence of Greek holiday flavors.

Customs and celebrations

In Greece, carols are not just for Christmas -they are for New Year and Epiphany as well, with each celebration having different songs. You will recognise a lot of the tunes as they are the same as those used all over the world, but others are Greek folk songs which have been passed down from generation to generation. And in another Greek twist, carols are one of the highlights of the season for children in cities and villages all over Greece. 

On Christmas Eve, New Year’s Eve and the day before Epiphany, groups of excited children meet up in the morning wearing Christmas hats, tinsel and whatever else they could find to add some Christmas cheer. The older children are usually very happy to take along younger brothers or sisters for added cuteness, so mixed groups from about age 8 to 18 set off round the houses and the businesses in their neighbourhood to sing carols. 

You could say this was the Greek version of guising or trick and treat as the kids knock on doors, ask if they can sing, and then launch into a carol (usually sung to the tune of Jingle Bells) accompanied by enthusiastic banging on the obligatory triangles and occasionally even by harmonicas, guitars or accordions.

In the old days, householders would give them Christmas goodies such as kourabiedes or melomakarona, but nowadays people give money (plus a fairly constant supply of Christmas treats to help the kids keep their strength up). 

The Nemea area in Corinthia has its own special tradition, the psyokori. On Christmas Day when the family returns home from church, their teenage daughter will be waiting for them with traditional treats such as melomakarona, traditional fried bread pancakes, kourabiedes and liqueurs.

Celebrating New Year's Eve with a Greek twist, the tradition of "first-footing" closely resembles the Scottish custom but omits the use of coal. In Greece, it is essential that the first individual to cross the threshold after midnight steps in with their left foot first, and it is considered advantageous if this person is young, fortunate, or perceived as pure-hearted. Properly observing this ritual is believed to ensure prosperity for the household throughout the year and safeguard against illness and misfortune.

Another captivating (though potentially tidier) tradition involves a pomegranate—a symbol originating from Messina and now widespread across Greece. On New Year’s day, family members gather as the head of the household deliberately hurls a pomegranate at the doorstep with enough force to shatter it open and scatter its seeds in all directions. Traditionally, elders say: "May health, happiness, and joy fill our lives in this new year, and may our pockets be stocked all year with coins matching the number of pomegranate seeds." When seeds are firm and deep red, it signifies a prosperous and blessed year ahead.

In certain villages within Arcadia, on January 1st residents leave food at water fountains for “the Fates”—the trio from Greek mythology responsible for determining mortal destinies. If by dawn all food has vanished by morning light, it is regarded as an indication that the coming year will be favorable.

Customs of Epiphany

The kallikantzaroi are playful, mischievous spirits resembling elves or goblins who spend most of the year underground, attempting to saw through the roots that sustain the Earth. Their outings above ground occur only between Christmas Eve and Epiphany, during which they indulge in mischief by invading homes and creating chaos. They enjoy rearranging furniture, stealing holiday treats, but their greatest obsession is ruining people's Christmas cooking!

Fortunately, traditional methods exist to ward off these creatures. One common practice is placing branches over the fireplace opening to prevent them from entering through the chimney. Additionally, all sweets and treats are carefully covered so that if they do manage entry, they won’t consume everything. In severe cases, Epiphany itself drives them away when a priest visits to bless the house with holy water. At that moment, the kallikantzaroi retreat underground once again—only to resume sawing through the Tree's roots after realizing that while they've caused mayhem above ground, the tree has recovered and regrown its roots. The cycle then begins anew until next Christmas arrives.

The origins of kallikantzaroi remain somewhat mysterious; some folklorists suggest they descend from ancient beings like Pan or Satyrs—deities with cloven hooves—and believe their mythos transitioned from Greek mythology into Christian traditions.

The "yiala-yiala" in Ermioni. In Ermioni, a quaint port town nestled in the former Argolis region of the Peloponnese, Epiphany is celebrated with vibrant tradition. The festivities commence on the eve of Epiphany when local young men, soon to serve in the military, gather at the harbor to adorn fishing vessels with myrtle and palm leaves. As night falls, the celebration intensifies as they traverse the village—from house to house—dressed in traditional sailor attire and singing the customary "yiala-yiala" song. Well-wishers offer drinks or snacks to support their journey.

At dawn, villagers assemble at the harbor where a priest blesses the sea. The young men, still clad in sailor costumes and singing, board their fishing boats which sway gently on the water. At the moment when the priest casts a cross and an icon of Virgin Mary into the sea, all present watch as these sailors leap into icy waters in hopes of retrieving them. The individual who successfully recovers both receives a blessing from the priest along with a golden cross as a memento of this sacred event. 

Greece is unquestionably the ideal destination this holiday season, offering a diverse array of festivities—from stunning decorations and shopping excursions to concerts and amusement parks—alongside an abundance of delicious culinary delights.